NYT20020731.0049|NN 2002-07-31|NN 11:11|NN Q2420|NN &|CC Cx1|NN f|SYM ;|: tab-z|JJ r|LS f|SYM BC-CHEFS-SAVINGFISH-NNS|NNP 07|CD -|- 31|CD 1259|CD BC-CHEFS-SAVINGFISH-NNS|NNP RESPONSIBLE|NNP SEAFOOD|NNP SALES|NNS ARE|VBP THE|DT CATCH|NNP OF|IN THE|DT DAY|NNP ATTENTION|NNP EDITORS|NNP :|: This|DT article|NN from|IN the|DT NEWHOUSE|NNP NEWS|NNP SERVICE|NNP report|NN of|IN TUESDAY|NNP ,|, JULY|NNP 30|CD ,|, 2002|CD ,|, is|VBZ available|JJ as|RB a|DT "|'' separate|JJ buy|NN .|. "|'' 
For|IN information|NN about|IN purchasing|VBG the|DT article|NN ,|, contact|NN DEBRA|NNP WEYDERT|NNP of|IN The|DT New|NNP York|NNP Times|NNP Syndicate|NNP at|IN 732|CD -|- 390|CD -|- 4480|CD ;|: fax|NN ,|, 732|CD -|- 390|CD -|- 4697|CD ;|: e-mail|JJ ,|, weyded|JJ (|( at|IN )|) nytimes|NNS .|. com|NN Optional|NNP trim|VB at|IN 950|CD words|NNS By|IN MICHELLE|NNP COLE|NNP c.2002|NN Newhouse|NNP News|NNP Service|NNP (|( UNDATED|NNP )|) Chefs|NNP and|CC seafood|NN retailers|NNS are|VBP wading|VBG into|IN one|CD of|IN the|DT hottest|JJS natural|JJ resource|NN issues|NNS of|IN the|DT day|NN :|: fisheries|NNS management|NN .|. 

It|PRP 's|VBZ no|DT longer|RB unusual|JJ for|IN chefs|NNS to|TO refuse|VB to|TO serve|VB a|DT species|NNS they|PRP think|VBP to|TO be|VB at|IN risk|NN of|IN extinction|NN or|CC for|IN a|DT retailer|NN to|TO promote|VB seafoods|NNS that|WDT are|VBP abundant|JJ and|CC part|NN of|IN a|DT healthy|JJ marine|JJ ecosystem|NN .|. 

Most|JJS say|VBP they|PRP 're|VBP driven|VBN by|IN the|DT desire|NN to|TO do|VB right|NN by|IN the|DT environment|NN .|. 
Some|DT also|RB say|VBP they|PRP must|MD listen|VB to|TO their|PRP$ customers|NNS '|POS concerns|NNS or|CC risk|VB a|DT consumer|NN backlash|NN .|. 

The|DT nationwide|JJ boycott|NN of|IN Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS is|VBZ a|DT potent|JJ example|NN of|IN the|DT new|JJ activism|NN .|. 

"|'' I|PRP have|VBP made|VBN it|PRP a|DT policy|NN of|IN mine|NN never|RB to|TO serve|VB Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS ,|, "|'' said|VBD Billy|NNP Hahn|NNP ,|, executive|NN chef|NN at|IN Jake|NNP 's|POS Famous|NNP Crawfish|NNP ,|, a|DT Portland|NNP ,|, Ore|NNP .|. ,|, landmark|NN since|IN 1892|CD .|. 
"|'' I|PRP refuse|VBP to|TO sell|VB it|PRP .|. "|'' 

Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS ,|, also|RB known|VBN as|IN Patagonian|NNP toothfish|NN ,|, came|VBD into|IN vogue|NN in|IN the|DT 1990s|NN in|IN U.S.|NNP restaurants|NNS and|CC fish|NN markets|NNS .|. 
With|IN rising|VBG demand|NN for|IN the|DT firm|NN ,|, oil|NN -|- rich|JJ fish|NN came|VBD pirate|NN fishing|NN fleets|NNS eager|JJ to|TO cash|VB in|IN on|IN its|PRP$ popularity|NN -|- -|- even|RB if|IN it|PRP meant|VBD skirting|VBG catch|NN limits|NNS and|CC environmental|JJ regulations|NNS .|. 

Contrary|JJ to|TO what|WP some|DT restaurants|NNS and|CC retailers|NNS tell|VBP their|PRP$ customers|NNS ,|, the|DT U.S.|NNP government|NN does|VBZ not|RB consider|VB the|DT Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS to|TO be|VB endangered|VBN .|. 
But|CC in|IN some|DT areas|NNS ,|, the|DT seabass|NNS are|VBP being|VBG overfished|JJ .|. 

That|DT is|VBZ potentially|RB a|DT problem|NN because|IN Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS are|VBP a|DT long|JJ -|- lived|JJ species|NNS -|- -|- living|VBG as|RB long|RB as|IN 50|CD years|NNS -|- -|- and|CC reproduce|VB slowly|RB ,|, said|VBD Susan|NNP Buchanan|NNP ,|, a|DT spokeswoman|NN for|IN the|DT federal|JJ government|NN 's|POS National|NNP Marine|NNP Fisheries|NNPS Service|NNP .|. 

The|DT NMFS|NNP estimates|VBZ that|IN in|IN 2000|CD ,|, more|JJR than|IN 16,000|CD tons|NNS of|IN Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS were|VBD legally|RB caught|VBN from|IN an|DT internationally|RB regulated|VBN harvest|NN area|NN in|IN the|DT Antarctic|NNP Ocean|NNP .|. 
But|CC more|JJR than|IN 32,000|CD tons|NNS may|MD have|VB been|VBN taken|VBN illegally|RB from|IN those|DT same|JJ waters|NNS ,|, the|DT fisheries|NNS service|NN said|VBD .|. 

Impatient|NNP with|IN regulators|NNS ,|, the|DT National|NNP Environmental|NNP Trust|NNP began|VBD a|DT boycott|NN campaign|NN in|IN February|NNP called|VBD "|'' Take|VB a|DT Pass|NNP on|IN Chilean|JJ Seabass|NNP .|. "|'' 
The|DT Washington|NNP -|- based|JJ conservation|NN group|NN says|VBZ more|JJR than|IN 530|CD restaurants|NNS have|VBP signed|VBN on|IN .|. 

A|DT number|NN of|IN restaurants|NNS not|RB officially|RB part|VB of|IN the|DT National|NNP Environmental|NNP Trust|NNP boycott|NN also|RB have|VBP stopped|VBN serving|VBG Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS .|. 
And|CC it|PRP 's|VBZ not|RB just|RB the|DT white|JJ tablecloth|NN crowd|NN .|. 

Red|NNP Lobster|NNP ,|, with|IN 660|CD restaurants|NNS in|IN the|DT United|NNP States|NNPS and|CC Canada|NNP ,|, dropped|VBD Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS from|IN the|DT menu|NN in|IN the|DT past|JJ year|NN because|IN of|IN "|'' sustainability|NN "|'' concerns|NNS ,|, said|VBD Wendy|NNP Spirduso|NNP ,|, communications|NNS director|NN for|IN the|DT Orlando|NNP ,|, Fla|NNP .|. -|- based|JJ chain|NN .|. 

Some|DT retailers|NNS also|RB have|VBP pulled|VBN Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS .|. 

"|'' We|PRP 've|VBP discontinued|VBN selling|VBG swordfish|NN ,|, Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS ,|, orange|NN roughy|NN and|CC marlin|NN ,|, "|'' said|VBD Mark|NNP Cockcroft|NNP ,|, national|JJ seafood|NN buyer|NN for|IN Wild|NNP Oats|NNP Markets|NNP ,|, a|DT chain|NN of|IN 103|CD stores|NNS .|. 
"|'' We|PRP are|VBP also|RB taking|VBG a|DT real|JJ hard|JJ look|NN currently|RB at|IN almost|RB all|DT species|NNS of|IN shark|NN ,|, though|IN we|PRP have|VBP n't|RB made|VBN a|DT formal|JJ statement|NN about|IN that|DT .|. "|'' 

Whole|JJ Foods|NNP Markets|NNP ,|, with|IN 133|CD stores|NNS nationwide|JJ ,|, also|RB does|VBZ not|RB sell|VB Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS .|. 

All|DT of|IN this|DT comes|VBZ at|IN a|DT time|NN when|WRB Americans|NNPS are|VBP consuming|NN more|JJR seafood|NN :|: 15|CD to|TO 16|CD pounds|NNS per|IN person|NN each|DT year|NN ,|, compared|VBN with|IN 10.3|CD pounds|NNS per|IN person|NN in|IN 1960|CD and|CC 12.5|CD pounds|NNS in|IN 1980|CD ,|, according|VBG to|TO the|DT National|NNP Fisheries|NNPS Institute|NNP ,|, an|DT industry|NN association|NN .|. 

At|IN the|DT same|JJ time|NN ,|, about|IN half|PDT the|DT world|NN 's|POS fisheries|NNS are|VBP being|VBG fished|JJ to|TO capacity|NN .|. 

The|DT Food|NNP and|CC Agriculture|NNP Organization|NNP of|IN the|DT United|NNP Nations|NNPS reports|NNS that|IN 47|CD percent|NN to|TO 50|CD percent|NN of|IN stocks|NNS are|VBP "|'' fully|RB exploited|VBN ,|, "|'' meaning|VBG that|WDT catches|VBZ have|VBP either|CC reached|VBN or|CC are|VBP close|RB to|TO maximum|NN limits|NNS .|. 
Another|DT 15|CD percent|NN to|TO 18|CD percent|NN are|VBP "|'' overexploited|JJ ,|, "|'' and|CC 9|CD percent|NN to|TO 10|CD percent|NN have|VBP been|VBN "|'' depleted|VBN or|CC are|VBP recovering|VBG from|IN depletion|NN .|. "|'' 

The|DT seafood|NN industry|NN is|VBZ less|JJR than|IN thrilled|VBN about|IN this|DT surge|NN of|IN interest|NN in|IN ocean|NN ecosystems|NNS from|IN people|NNS who|WP are|VBP not|RB scientists|NNS .|. 

Fisheries|NNPS management|NN is|VBZ best|JJS left|VBN to|TO the|DT experts|NNS ,|, said|VBD Thor|NNP Lassen|NNP ,|, president|NN of|IN Ocean|NNP Trust|NNP ,|, a|DT research|NN and|CC conservation|NN foundation|NN partly|RB financed|VBN by|IN the|DT fishing|NN industry|NN .|. 
"|'' It|PRP involves|VBZ very|RB complicated|VBN choices|NNS that|WDT have|VBP to|TO do|VB with|IN the|DT biology|NN of|IN species|NNS ,|, their|PRP$ life|NN cycles|NNS ,|, how|WRB they|PRP respond|VBP to|TO various|JJ changes|NNS in|IN the|DT oceans|NNS ,|, etc.|NN "|'' 

When|WRB there|EX 's|VBZ a|DT boycott|NN ,|, Lassen|NNP said|VBD ,|, "|'' it|PRP 's|VBZ not|RB environmentalists|NNS or|CC chefs|NNS making|VBG the|DT sacrifice|NN ,|, it|PRP 's|VBZ coastal|JJ communities|NNS .|. "|'' 

Rod|NNP Moore|NNP ,|, executive|JJ director|NN of|IN the|DT West|NNP Coast|NNP Seafood|NNP Processors|NNP Association|NNP ,|, suggests|VBZ that|IN activists|NNS with|IN an|DT agenda|NN are|VBP manipulating|VBG chefs|NNS and|CC retailers|NNS .|. 

The|DT conservation|NN groups|NNS providing|VBG information|NN to|TO chefs|NNS and|CC retailers|NNS and|CC lists|NNS of|IN environmentally|RB appropriate|JJ seafoods|NNS to|TO consumers|NNS are|VBP the|DT same|JJ groups|NNS working|VBG to|TO affect|VB fisheries|NNS management|NN on|IN the|DT political|JJ and|CC regulatory|JJ level|NN ,|, Moore|NNP said|VBD .|. 

That|DT 's|VBZ simply|RB good|JJ strategy|NN ,|, said|VBD James|NNP Leape|NNP ,|, deputy|NN director|NN of|IN the|DT conservation|NN program|NN for|IN the|DT David|NNP and|CC Lucile|NNP Packard|NNP Foundation|NNP in|IN Los|NNP Altos|NNP ,|, Calif|NNP .|. 

In|IN 2000|CD and|CC 2001|CD ,|, the|DT Packard|NNP Foundation|NNP awarded|VBD $26|NN million|CD in|IN marine|JJ fisheries|NNS conservation|NN grants|NNS .|. 
They|PRP included|VBD support|NN for|IN marine|JJ reserves|NNS and|CC money|NN for|IN fisheries|NNS management|NN reform|NN .|. 
More|JJR than|IN $7|NN million|CD was|VBD given|VBN to|TO projects|NNS aimed|VBN at|IN educating|VBG the|DT general|JJ public|NN .|. 

"|'' One|CD of|IN the|DT principal|JJ concerns|NNS of|IN the|DT Packard|NNP Foundation|NNP is|VBZ the|DT preservation|NN of|IN natural|JJ resources|NNS ,|, particularly|RB in|IN the|DT oceans|NNS ,|, and|CC one|CD of|IN the|DT greatest|JJS threats|NNS is|VBZ overfishing|VBG ,|, "|'' Leape|NNP said|VBD .|. 
"|'' We|PRP have|VBP seen|VBN that|IN raising|VBG consumer|NN awareness|NN and|CC concern|NN among|IN restaurants|NNS and|CC retailers|NNS about|IN a|DT particular|JJ fishery|NN can|MD really|RB make|VB a|DT difference|NN .|. "|'' 

"|'' (|( OPTIONAL|NNP TRIM|NNP FOLLOWS|NNP )|) The|DT Monterey|NNP Bay|NNP Aquarium|NNP 's|POS Web|NNP site|NN rates|VBZ different|JJ species|NNS of|IN fish|NN for|IN overfishing|VBG ,|, habitat|NN damage|NN and|CC other|JJ factors|NNS .|. 
The|DT California|NNP aquarium|NN also|RB created|VBD "|'' Seafood|NNP Watch|NNP "|'' wallet|NN cards|NNS designed|VBN to|TO take|VB to|TO restaurants|NNS .|. 
More|JJR than|IN 600,000|CD of|IN the|DT cards|NNS and|CC seafood|NN guides|NNS have|VBP been|VBN distributed|VBN since|IN 2000|CD ,|, said|VBD Jennifer|NNP Dianto|NNP ,|, Seafood|NNP Watch|NNP program|NN manager|NN at|IN the|DT aquarium|NN .|. 

Chefs|NNP and|CC retailers|NNS around|IN the|DT country|NN know|VB they|PRP must|MD be|VB prepared|VBN to|TO deal|VB with|IN customers|NNS who|WP arrive|VBP with|IN the|DT aquarium|NN 's|POS seafood|NN card|NN in|IN hand|NN .|. 
But|CC in|IN a|DT business|NN in|IN which|WDT 12|CD -|- hour|NN shifts|NNS are|VBP the|DT norm|NN ,|, some|DT chefs|NNS worry|VBP about|IN their|PRP$ lack|NN of|IN time|NN to|TO stay|VB informed|VBN about|IN complicated|VBN ,|, rapidly|RB changing|VBG fisheries|NNS management|NN issues|NNS .|. 

Some|DT working|VBG chefs|NNS say|VBP they|PRP routinely|RB review|VBP conservation|NN group|NN Web|NNP sites|NNS ,|, government|NN reports|NNS and|CC industry|NN sources|NNS .|. 

"|'' For|IN me|PRP ,|, it|PRP 's|VBZ very|RB difficult|JJ to|TO be|VB certain|JJ that|IN the|DT information|NN which|WDT is|VBZ given|VBN to|TO me|PRP is|VBZ real|JJ ,|, "|'' said|VBD Eric|NNP Ripert|NNP ,|, chef|NN at|IN Le|NNP Bernardin|NNP ,|, a|DT four|JJ -|- star|NN seafood|NN restaurant|NN in|IN Manhattan|NNP .|. 
"|'' I|PRP do|VBP n't|RB know|VB .|. 
I|PRP do|VBP n't|RB have|VB enough|JJ information|NN to|TO know|VB ,|, for|IN example|NN ,|, if|IN Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS is|VBZ really|RB disappearing|VBG or|CC if|IN it|PRP 's|VBZ political|JJ pressure|NN .|. "|'' 

Despite|IN being|VBG uncertain|JJ of|IN its|PRP$ status|NN ,|, Ripert|NNP pulled|VBD Chilean|JJ seabass|NNS .|. 
Le|NNP Bernardin|NNP 's|POS menu|NN also|RB informs|VBZ diners|NNS that|IN the|DT restaurant|NN will|MD not|RB serve|VB swordfish|NN to|TO support|VB efforts|NNS "|'' to|TO recover|VB the|DT species|NNS .|. "|'' 

"|'' I|PRP do|VBP n't|RB wish|VB to|TO be|VB a|DT spokesman|NN for|IN any|DT campaign|NN ,|, "|'' Ripert|NNP said|VBD .|. 
"|'' I|PRP do|VBP it|PRP as|IN somebody|NN who|WP has|VBZ a|DT conscience|NN and|CC is|VBZ caring|VBG .|. "|'' 

JL|NNP END|NNP COLE|NNP (|( Michelle|NNP Cole|NNP is|VBZ a|DT staff|NN writer|NN for|IN The|DT Oregonian|NNP of|IN Portland|NNP ,|, Ore|NNP .|. 
She|PRP can|MD be|VB contacted|VBN at|IN michellecole|NN (|( at|IN )|) news|NN .|. oregonian|NN .|. com|NN .|. )|) 
NYT-07|NN -|- 31|CD -|- 02|CD 1111|CD EDT|NNP 