NYT20020731.0078|NN 2002-07-31|NN 13:47|NN A4346|NN &|CC Cx1|NN f|SYM ;|: ttd-z|JJ r|LS d|SYM BC-JULIACHILD-SFCHRON|NNP 07|CD -|- 31|CD 1501|CD BC-JULIACHILD-SF|NNP MUST|NNP CREDIT|NNP THE|DT SAN|NNP FRANCISCO|NNP CHRONICLE|NNP Grande|NNP dame|NN of|IN cooking|NN still|RB going|VBG strong|JJ at|IN 90|CD :|: Julia|NNP Child|NNP celebrates|VBZ in|IN San|NNP Francisco|NNP 
BY|NNP KAROLA|NNP SAEKEL|NNP c|SYM .|. 2002|CD The|DT San|NNP Francisco|NNP Chronicle|NNP SAN|NNP FRANCISCO|NNP -|- -|- How|WRB does|VBZ it|PRP feel|VB to|TO turn|VB 90|CD and|CC have|VBP attained|VBN the|DT status|NN of|IN an|DT icon|NN ,|, a|DT living|VBG legend|NN ?|. 

"|'' It|PRP feels|VBZ just|RB like|IN it|PRP felt|VBD before|RB ,|, "|'' Julia|NNP Child|NNP says|VBZ with|IN the|DT throaty|NN laugh|NN familiar|JJ to|TO millions|NNS who|WP cut|VBP their|PRP$ culinary|JJ teeth|NNS on|IN her|PRP$ "|'' French|NNP Chef|NNP "|'' television|NN series|NN .|. 
The|DT show|NN ,|, along|IN with|IN her|PRP$ seminal|NN book|NN ,|, "|'' Mastering|NNP the|DT Art|NNP of|IN French|NNP Cooking|NNP "|'' (|( 1961|CD )|) ,|, revolutionized|VBD the|DT way|NN America|NNP cooks|NNS and|CC eats|VBZ .|. 

While|IN making|VBG light|NN of|IN the|DT difference|NN a|DT day|NN -|- -|- or|CC another|DT decade|NN -|- -|- makes|VBZ ,|, Child|NNP intends|VBZ to|TO enjoy|VB her|PRP$ birthday|NN thoroughly|RB .|. 
First|LS ,|, there|EX will|MD be|VB all|PDT the|DT public|JJ observances|NNS ,|, including|VBG a|DT sold|VBD -|- out|IN dinner|NN Thursday|NNP at|IN San|NNP Francisco|NNP 's|POS tony|JJ Fifth|NNP Floor|NNP restaurant|NN ,|, which|WDT -|- -|- like|IN dinners|NNS that|WDT night|NN at|IN 19|CD other|JJ venues|NNS across|IN the|DT country|NN -|- -|- will|MD benefit|VB the|DT scholarship|NN fund|NN of|IN the|DT International|NNP Association|NNP of|IN Culinary|NNP Professionals|NNS (|( which|WDT Child|NNP co-founded|VBD )|) .|. 

Friday|NNP to|TO Sunday|NNP ,|, the|DT action|NN moves|NNS to|TO Napa|NNP ,|, with|IN both|DT members|NNS -|- only|RB and|CC public|JJ events|NNS at|IN COPIA|NNP :|: The|DT American|NNP Center|NNP for|IN Wine|NNP ,|, Food|NNP and|CC the|DT Arts|NNP ,|, of|IN which|WDT she|PRP is|VBZ an|DT honorary|JJ board|NN member|NN .|. 

Aug|NNP .|. 15|CD ,|, her|PRP$ actual|JJ birthday|NN ,|, will|MD see|VB her|PRP in|IN Maine|NNP at|IN an|DT annual|JJ gathering|NN of|IN nieces|NNS ,|, nephews|NNS ,|, their|PRP$ offspring|NN and|CC friends|NNS ,|, who|WP for|IN many|JJ years|NNS have|VBP rolled|VBN a|DT joined|VBN birthday|NN celebration|NN for|IN several|JJ members|NNS of|IN the|DT group|NN into|IN a|DT jolly|RB reunion|NN .|. 

The|DT schedule|NN Child|NNP and|CC her|PRP$ assistant|NN of|IN 14|CD years|NNS ,|, former|JJ pastry|NN chef|NN Stephanie|NNP Hersh|NNP ,|, have|VBP laid|VBN out|IN is|VBZ not|RB exactly|RB a|DT senior|JJ -|- citizen|NN routine|NN ,|, even|RB though|IN Child|NNP has|VBZ always|RB been|VBN candid|JJ about|IN her|PRP$ age|NN and|CC realistic|JJ in|IN assessing|VBG her|PRP$ own|JJ capabilities|NNS .|. 

When|WRB the|DT Pasadena|NNP native|NN moved|VBD back|RB to|TO California|NNP from|IN her|PRP$ long|JJ -|- time|NN home|NN in|IN the|DT Boston|NNP area|NN last|JJ year|NN ,|, she|PRP also|RB made|VBD the|DT move|NN from|IN a|DT condominium|NN she|PRP and|CC her|PRP$ late|JJ husband|NN ,|, Paul|NNP ,|, had|VBD purchased|VBN many|JJ years|NNS ago|RB to|TO a|DT progressive|JJ retirement|NN home|NN .|. 
She|PRP is|VBZ in|IN the|DT most|RBS active|JJ of|IN the|DT four|CD levels|NNS available|JJ ,|, but|CC should|MD the|DT need|NN arise|VB ,|, she|PRP can|MD move|VB on|IN to|TO assisted|VBN living|VBG facilities|NNS within|IN the|DT same|JJ complex|NN .|. 

"|'' Julia|NNP ,|, "|'' explains|VBZ Hersh|NNP ,|, "|'' made|VBD these|DT retirement|NN plans|VBZ many|JJ years|NNS ago|RB .|. 
She|PRP thinks|VBZ it|PRP 's|VBZ selfish|JJ for|IN people|NNS not|RB to|TO make|VB arrangements|NNS for|IN their|PRP$ old|JJ age|NN in|IN good|JJ time|NN .|. "|'' 

But|CC so|RB far|RB ,|, age|NN has|VBZ been|VBN kind|NN to|TO the|DT ebullient|JJ Child|NNP .|. 
In|IN a|DT phone|NN interview|NN a|DT couple|NN of|IN weeks|NNS ago|RB ,|, she|PRP reported|VBD with|IN glee|NN that|DT surgery|NN early|RB this|DT month|NN to|TO remove|VB a|DT small|JJ cyst|NN on|IN her|PRP$ spinal|JJ cord|NN had|VBD "|'' miraculously|RB "|'' cleared|VBD up|RB recent|JJ problems|NNS in|IN walking|VBG :|: "|'' Turned|VBN out|IN there|EX is|VBZ nothing|NN wrong|JJ with|IN my|PRP$ legs|NNS at|IN all|DT .|. "|'' 

So|IN she|PRP can|MD once|RB again|RB go|VB shopping|NN ,|, buying|VBG whatever|WDT seems|VBZ best|JJS on|IN any|DT given|VBN day|NN .|. 
Though|IN she|PRP had|VBD a|DT "|'' nice|JJ "|'' kitchen|NN installed|VBN in|IN her|PRP$ new|JJ home|NN ,|, Child|NNP said|VBD it|PRP 's|VBZ like|IN a|DT ship|NN 's|POS galley|NN -|- -|- a|DT far|JJ cry|NN from|IN the|DT huge|JJ ,|, three|JJ -|- pantry|NN kitchen|NN Paul|NNP Child|NNP designed|VBD for|IN their|PRP$ house|NN in|IN Cambridge|NNP .|. 
That|DT may|MD well|RB be|VB the|DT best-known|JJS kitchen|NN in|IN America|NNP ,|, since|IN it|PRP became|VBD the|DT site|NN of|IN the|DT "|'' French|NNP Chef|NNP "|'' television|NN programs|NNS ,|, which|WDT started|VBD airing|VBG in|IN 1962|CD .|. 

"|'' Back|RB there|RB ,|, we|PRP always|RB ate|VBD in|IN the|DT kitchen|NN ,|, "|'' Child|NNP reminisced|JJ ,|, "|'' I|PRP cannot|NN do|VBP that|DT here|RB .|. "|'' 
That|DT means|VBZ her|PRP$ entertaining|JJ has|VBZ been|VBN curtailed|VBN ,|, even|RB though|IN she|PRP still|RB has|VBZ an|DT active|JJ social|JJ life|NN with|IN the|DT many|JJ friends|NNS the|DT Childs|NNP made|VBD during|IN 22|CD winters|NNS spent|VBD in|IN Santa|NNP Barbara|NNP .|. 

She|PRP will|MD have|VB reunions|NNS of|IN sorts|NNS with|IN her|PRP$ famous|JJ kitchen|NN in|IN the|DT next|JJ few|JJ weeks|NNS .|. 
One|CD of|IN its|PRP$ Peg|NNP -|- Board|NN walls|NNS was|VBD dismantled|VBN and|CC reinstalled|VBN at|IN COPIA|NNP ;|: the|DT rest|NN went|VBD to|TO Washington|NNP ,|, D.C.|NN ,|, and|CC the|DT Behring|NNP Center|NNP of|IN the|DT Smithsonian|NNP Institution|NNP 's|POS National|NNP Museum|NNP of|IN American|JJ History|NN .|. 
(|( all|DT CQ|NNP )|) Hersh|NNP recalls|VBZ the|DT museum|NN staff|NN 's|POS approach|NN to|TO preserving|VBG the|DT famous|JJ kitchen|NN as|IN awesome|JJ :|: They|PRP cataloged|JJ and|CC photographed|VBN everything|NN ,|, from|IN stove|NN to|TO windows|NNS ,|, blinds|NNS to|TO drawer|NN contents|NNS .|. 
As|IN reinstalled|VBN in|IN Washington|NNP ,|, the|DT kitchen|NN should|MD be|VB as|IN we|PRP all|DT remember|VBP it|PRP from|IN countless|JJ TV|NN shows|NNS ,|, "|'' right|RB down|IN to|TO the|DT toothpicks|NNS .|. "|'' 

Child|NNP will|MD go|VB to|TO the|DT capital|NN for|IN the|DT debut|NN of|IN the|DT exhibit|NN right|NN after|IN the|DT Maine|NNP birthday|NN bash|NN .|. 
To|TO see|VB her|PRP$ kitchen|NN -|- -|- and|CC by|IN extension|NN ,|, herself|PRP -|- -|- enshrined|JJ in|IN the|DT Smithsonian|NNP ,|, she|PRP said|VBD ,|, "|'' will|MD be|VB an|DT odd|JJ feeling|NN "|'' and|CC no|DT doubt|NN bring|VB back|RB memories|NNS .|. 

But|CC Child|NNP is|VBZ not|RB one|CD to|TO get|VB maudlin|NN about|IN the|DT past|NN ,|, though|IN she|PRP does|VBZ want|VB to|TO keep|VB it|PRP alive|JJ .|. 
She|PRP 's|VBZ already|RB got|VBD her|PRP$ next|JJ project|NN picked|VBD out|IN :|: A|DT memoir|NN of|IN her|PRP$ and|CC Paul|NNP 's|POS life|NN in|IN the|DT diplomatic|JJ service|NN with|IN his|PRP$ professional|JJ photographs|NNS and|CC some|DT of|IN her|PRP$ collected|VBN recipes|NNS .|. 

It|PRP will|MD undoubtedly|RB retell|NN how|WRB the|DT seeds|NNS of|IN her|PRP$ culinary|JJ career|NN were|VBD sown|NN :|: Fresh|NNP off|IN the|DT boat|NN on|IN their|PRP$ way|NN to|TO Paris|NNP and|CC Paul|NNP Child|NNP 's|POS new|JJ posting|VBG (|( they|PRP had|VBD met|VBN in|IN Sri|NNP Lanka|NNP during|IN World|NNP War|NNP II|NNP )|) ,|, they|PRP stopped|VBD for|IN lunch|NN in|IN Rouen|NNP .|. 
That|DT lunch|NN lit|VBD a|DT spark|NN that|WDT made|VBD Julia|NNP decide|VBP to|TO take|VB classes|NNS at|IN the|DT Cordon|NNP Bleu|NNP ,|, which|WDT in|IN turn|NN led|VBN to|TO her|PRP$ friendship|NN and|CC collaboration|NN with|IN Simone|NNP Beck|NNP and|CC Louisette|NNP Bertholle|NNP ,|, co-authors|JJ of|IN "|'' Mastering|NNP the|DT Art|NNP of|IN French|NNP Cooking|NNP ,|, "|'' and|CC ,|, ultimately|RB ,|, to|TO America|NNP 's|POS culinary|JJ revolution|NN .|. 

For|IN information|NN on|IN COPIA|NNP events|NNS open|JJ to|TO the|DT public|NN ,|, sign|NN on|IN to|TO www|NN .|. copia|NN .|. org|NN or|CC call|NN (|( 707|CD )|) 259|CD -|- 1600|CD .|. 

How|WRB to|TO feed|VB a|DT legend|NN 
So|RB what|WP do|VBP you|PRP prepare|VBP when|WRB asked|VBD to|TO cook|VB a|DT birthday|NN dinner|NN for|IN America|NNP 's|POS most|RBS famous|JJ culinary|JJ personality|NN ?|. 

Some|DT of|IN the|DT country|NN 's|POS top|JJ chefs|NNS will|MD answer|VB that|DT question|NN Thursday|NNP at|IN the|DT 20|CD dinners|NNS nationwide|JJ that|WDT will|MD celebrate|VB Julia|NNP Child|NNP 's|POS approaching|VBG 90th|CD birthday|NN .|. 
The|DT question|NN may|MD be|VB most|RBS acute|JJ for|IN three|CD San|NNP Francisco|NNP chefs|NNS preparing|VBG the|DT long|JJ sold|VBG -|- out|IN dinner|NN at|IN Fifth|NNP Floor|NNP restaurant|NN ,|, because|IN the|DT honoree|NN herself|PRP plans|VBZ to|TO be|VB there|RB .|. 

They|PRP are|VBP the|DT host|NN restaurant|NN 's|POS executive|NN chef|NN ,|, Laurent|NNP Gras|NNP ;|: his|PRP$ counterpart|NN at|IN Masa|NNP 's|POS ,|, Ron|NNP Siegel|NNP ,|, and|CC Masa|NNP pastry|NN chef|NN Keith|NNP Jeanminette|NNP .|. 

The|DT three|CD put|NN their|PRP$ heads|NNS together|RB ,|, thumbed|JJ through|IN "|'' Mastering|NNP the|DT Art|NNP of|IN French|NNP Cooking|NNP "|'' and|CC "|'' In|IN Julia|NNP 's|POS Kitchen|NN ,|, "|'' and|CC selected|VBN what|WP seemed|VBD like|IN the|DT honoree|NN 's|POS favorites|NNS ,|, though|IN with|IN a|DT few|JJ twists|NNS of|IN their|PRP$ own|JJ .|. 
"|'' It|PRP seems|VBZ she|PRP loves|VBZ soups|NNS ,|, "|'' said|VBD Siegel|NNP ,|, "|'' so|IN I|PRP am|VBP picking|VBG up|RP on|IN her|PRP$ vichyssoise|NN .|. 
But|CC since|IN it|PRP 's|VBZ the|DT middle|NN of|IN summer|NN ,|, I|PRP am|VBP adding|VBG fresh|JJ corn|NN to|TO it|PRP "|'' -|- -|- plus|CC a|DT dollop|NN of|IN caviar|NN for|IN good|JJ measure|NN .|. 

In|IN the|DT same|JJ vein|NN ,|, Gras|NNP is|VBZ tweaking|NN her|PRP$ salade|NN nicoise|NN ,|, and|CC Jeanminette|NNP is|VBZ adapting|VBG her|PRP$ mousse|NN au|NN chocolat|NN to|TO become|VB a|DT spectacular|JJ six|JJ -|- layer|NN pecan|NN marjolaine|NN .|. 
He|PRP could|MD hardly|RB go|VB wrong|JJ .|. 
When|WRB Child|NNP was|VBD asked|VBN some|DT years|NNS back|RB what|WP she|PRP would|MD order|VB for|IN her|PRP$ last|JJ meal|NN ,|, she|PRP ended|VBD the|DT list|NN with|IN "|'' something|NN chocolate|NN for|IN dessert|NN .|. "|'' 

Here|RB is|VBZ the|DT San|NNP Francisco|NNP chefs|NNS '|POS menu|NN :|: 

Corn|NN vichyssoise|NN with|IN caviar|NN 

Julia|NNP 's|POS composed|VBN near|JJ -|- nicoise|JJ salad|NN 

Atlantic|JJ halibut|NN with|IN flavored|JJ butters|NNS 

Sonoma|NNP duck|NN breast|NN a|DT la|FW Julia|NNP Child|NNP with|IN crispy|NN pancetta|NN and|CC sweet|JJ summer|NN onions|NNS and|CC naturally|RB enriched|JJ duck|NN sauce|NN 

Six|JJ -|- layer|NN pecan|NN marjolaine|NN with|IN Julia|NNP 's|POS coffee|NN chocolate|NN mousse|NN ,|, cocoa|NN meringue|NN ,|, pecan|NN crust|NN and|CC citrus|JJ sorbet|NN 

list|NN >|NN 

Words|NNPS of|IN wisdom|NN 
Julia|NNP Child|NNP does|VBZ n't|RB have|VB much|JJ use|NN for|IN fads|NNS and|CC trends|NNS -|- -|- never|RB has|VBZ .|. 
She|PRP never|RB subscribed|VBN to|TO cuisine|NN minceur|NN ,|, cholesterol|NN -|- free|JJ cooking|NN ,|, meat|NN -|- free|JJ meal|NN plans|NNS ,|, organic|JJ food|NN or|CC any|DT of|IN the|DT other|JJ politically|RB correct|JJ trends|NNS of|IN different|JJ times|NNS -|- -|- and|CC that|DT includes|VBZ restricted|VBN diets|NNS ,|, in|IN spades|NNS .|. 

However|RB ,|, an|DT active|JJ woman|NN all|DT her|PRP$ life|NN ,|, she|PRP is|VBZ aware|JJ of|IN the|DT need|NN to|TO keep|VB ones|NNS weight|NN and|CC fitness|NN in|IN mind|NN .|. 
Here|RB are|VBP her|PRP$ personal|JJ rules|NNS for|IN achieving|VBG these|DT goals|NNS :|: 

Take|VB small|JJ helpings|NNS 

No|DT seconds|NNS 

No|DT snacking|VBG 

Eat|NNP a|DT little|JJ bit|NN of|IN everything|NN 

Drink|NN modest|JJ amounts|NNS of|IN good|JJ wine|NN .|. 

Why|WRB we|PRP love|VBP Julia|NNP 
BY|NNP KIM|NNP SEVERSON|NNP c|SYM .|. 2002|CD The|DT San|NNP Francisco|NNP Chronicle|NNP It|PRP 's|VBZ easy|JJ to|TO imagine|VB what|WP Bay|NNP Area|NNP chefs|NNS like|IN Alice|NNP Waters|NNP or|CC Michael|NNP Mina|NNP might|MD have|VB to|TO say|VB about|IN Julia|NNP Child|NNP on|IN her|PRP$ 90th|CD birthday|NN .|. 
But|CC what|WP about|IN Bay|NNP Area|NNP notables|NNS who|WP like|IN to|TO cook|VB but|CC are|VBP not|RB connected|VBN to|TO a|DT professional|JJ kitchen|NN ?|. 

Susie|NNP Tompkins|NNP Buell|NNP ,|, socialite|NN and|CC political|JJ activist|NN who|WP co-founded|VBD the|DT Esprit|NNP de|IN Corps|NNP fashion|NN company|NN :|: "|'' When|WRB I|PRP think|VBP of|IN Julia|NNP Child|NNP I|PRP think|VBP of|IN the|DT television|NN episode|NN where|WRB she|PRP 's|VBZ showing|VBG you|PRP how|WRB to|TO make|VB a|DT turkey|NN dinner|NN and|CC the|DT turkey|NN fell|VBD on|IN the|DT floor|NN .|. 
It|PRP 's|VBZ live|VB and|CC she|PRP leans|VBZ over|RB and|CC picks|VBZ it|PRP up|RP and|CC says|VBZ ,|, `|`` What|WP the|DT guests|NNS do|VBP n't|RB see|VB wo|MD n't|RB hurt|VB them|PRP .|. '|POS 
You|PRP have|VBP to|TO be|VB playful|JJ and|CC confident|JJ about|IN cooking|NN .|. 
She|PRP cooks|NNS that|WDT way|NN ,|, and|CC I|PRP cook|NN that|DT way|NN .|. "|'' 

Denise|NNP Hale|NNP ,|, social|JJ icon|NN and|CC Liza|NNP Minnelli|NNP 's|POS stepmother|NN :|: "|'' Julia|NNP Child|NNP gave|VBD to|TO all|DT women|NNS one|CD beautiful|JJ present|NN :|: Watching|VBG her|PRP$ series|NN you|PRP found|VBD out|IN you|PRP do|VBP n't|RB have|VB to|TO be|VB perfect|JJ .|. "|'' 

Francis|NNP Ford|NNP Coppola|NNP ,|, film|NN director|NN :|: "|'' I|PRP think|VBP she|PRP 's|VBZ a|DT fascinating|JJ woman|NN ,|, and|CC I|PRP enjoy|VBP very|RB much|RB watching|NN her|PRP$ shows|NNS with|IN Jacques|NNP Pepin|NNP .|. "|'' 

Harry|NNP Denton|NNP ,|, San|NNP Francisco|NNP nightclub|NN owner|NN :|: "|'' My|PRP$ favorite|JJ thing|NN about|IN her|PRP$ is|VBZ her|PRP$ straightforward|JJ honesty|NN and|CC that|IN her|PRP$ favorite|JJ food|NN is|VBZ butter|NN .|. 
I|PRP love|VBP butter|NN ,|, too|RB .|. "|'' 

Michael|NNP Chabon|NNP ,|, author|NN of|IN Pulitzer|NNP Prize|NNP winner|NN "|'' The|DT Amazing|NNP Adventures|NNP of|IN Kavalier|NNP &|CC Clay|NNP "|'' :|: "|'' All|DT I|PRP think|VBP of|IN when|WRB I|PRP think|VBP of|IN her|PRP$ now|RB is|VBZ Dan|NNP Akroyd|NNP pretending|VBG to|TO be|VB her|PRP$ (|( on|IN Saturday|NNP Night|NNP Live|NNP )|) and|CC chopping|VBG his|PRP$ fingers|NNS off|RP and|CC bleeding|VBG all|DT over|IN .|. "|'' 

NYT-07|NN -|- 31|CD -|- 02|CD 1347|CD EDT|NNP 